That’s an awfully long title, but thankfully this way of creating a knitted Hat is a lot simpler than the title suggests! This is the next article in my series about knitted - and crochet - Hat construction.
Some examples of Woolly Wormhead designs made this way are Diagonale, Tubed and Imagiro.
the ‘Diagonale’ slouch Hat
the ‘Tubed’ slouch Hat
the ‘Imagiro’ vintage Hat
When we make a Hat this way, we start with a regular strip of knitted fabric and fold, then sew it together. It’s not a method that necessarily springs to mind when ‘modular knitting’ gets mentioned, as it doesn’t require you to join lots of pieces of knitting – though you could totally do that and make yourself a really cool Hat. It’s modular because it combines methods; it’s still pieced together, only differently. I expanded on this a little more in my Hat Construction overview article.
What I love about this method, is that it’s a fantastic way for newer knitters to make themselves a Hat, as it requires no shaping techniques – just a rectangle of knitting! And we can work this simple piece of knitting in a few different ways.
Diagram 1: the schematic shows a simple rectangle and the direction of knitting in the ‘Tubed’ Hat
Diagram 2: the schematic shows a simple rectangle and the direction of knitting in the ‘Diagonale’ Hat
Diagram 3: the schematic shows a simple rectangle and the direction of knitting in the ‘Imagiro’ Hat
The free Tubed Hat pattern is created from a strip of knitting that’s knit vertically - as shown above in Diagram 1 above.
A number of stitches equivalent to half the circumference of the finished Hat is cast on, and the strip is cast off when the length is equivalent to twice the overall length of the Hat. The stitches lie in the same direction as the depth of the Hat until the piece is folded and the crown shaping created.
The Diagonale design introduces increase and decrease techniques, but because they’re not essential for shaping, it’s a great pattern to practice those methods with. The direction of knitting is shown in Diagram 2 above.
The use of increases and decreases creates a diagonal pattern, one that is on the bias, and so the direction of the stitches lies at 45 degrees to the depth of the Hat whilst we knit it.
Similar to the Tubed pattern, when it’s sewn together and the crown shaping formed, some of the stitches will change direction.
Diagram 4: this schematic indicates how the rectangle of knitting will be folded and seamed in the construction of the ‘Tubed’ and ‘Diagonale’ Hats.
The schematic above shows how we then construct our Hat once the strip of knitting is finished. The dash-dot line in the middle is where we would fold the knitting, and the fine dashed lines show us where we would then sew the knitting – I recommend the Mattress Stitch for Garter Stitch method for the Tubed and Diagonale patterns.
From there, the corners may be treated in different ways, or the brim edge may be folded up – there’s lots you can do to make your Hat different!
Sometimes the direction of knitting is different again.
The Imagiro pattern instructs you to cast on for the longest edge of the strip of knitting, and having worked this for the length of the shorter edge, it is then folded in an interesting way and stitched in place to create its unique shape. Diagram 3 above shows this rectangle in relation to the other two.
Diagram 5: this schematic highlights how a fold and a single seam can still create a Hat.
From here I hope you can see how you might wish to change the shape of your strip of knitting to create yet another different Hat when folded or sewn. Even the humble rectangle can be created in so many different ways; the possibilities are endless!
Having looked at the bottom-up method of knitting a Hat, in this article I’m going to talk about knitting a Hat the other way round. It’s still knit vertically; we just start at the top and work down.
Just as in the bottom-up method, each part of the Hat is worked separately – only we cast on for the crown, work our way into the body, then down into the brim, where we cast off for the brim edge.
Diagram 1: the schematic shows a beanie shaped Hat with the 3 sections - crown, brim and body, marked. The arrow points downwards and indicates the direction of knitting.
Top down means just that – we start at the top of the Hat, at the very centre of the crown. To start, we would cast on the minimum number of stitches needed to begin the crown shaping. Because we’re working top-down, we’d create the crown shaping with increases, not decreases as we would when working bottom-up. Once the crown shaping is finished and the circumference of our Hat is the intended size, allowing for negative ease, we’ll continue seamlessly into the body of the Hat. The body is usually the part of a vertically knit Hat with minimal shaping, although that will depend on the style and stitch pattern.
Once the body of the Hat is finished, we’ll then start knitting the brim. If there’s a difference in circumference between the body and the brim of our Hat, then we’ll want to decrease the number of stitches on our needles to get the right size. Or if our Hat has a wide brim, we’d increase for that. Whereas with a bottom-up beret we’d increase from the brim into the body, with a top-down beret we’d decrease as we transition from the body into the brim. Top-down means we’re working the same Hat, only upside down, so everything is done in reverse – increases become decreases and vice versa.
the ‘Sette Vele’ Hat
the ‘Álfur’ Hat
the ‘Concentricity’ Hat
The brim of a top-down Hat is the last part of the Hat we’ll knit before binding off. As with any Hat, the brim may be ribbed, but it doesn’t have to be. The brim may be the only area of the Hat that needs to fit snugly around the head, which is why a ribbed brim is a popular choice – it’ll fit snugly, yet still have enough stretch for putting a Hat on or taking it off. But ribbing isn’t always a first choice for a top-down brim, as there aren’t as many options for binding off in ribbing as there are for casting on, and I personally like the challenge of finishing a top-down brim with something other than ribbing.
In my article about bottom-up vertically knit Hats, we looked a little at the internal structure of a Hat, and a top-down Hat is made up of the same parts. The diagram above shows the overall shape of a beanie, with a dotted line where the crown transitions to the body section before finally heading into the brim. It’s worth reminding ourselves that although this is how a Hat may look, what we knit is closer to a cylinder or tube that’s closed at the top – and the top of the tube is the crown shaping.
Increases vs Decreases
As we did in the bottom-up Hat article, let’s deconstruct the Hat and look at the way the crown is shaped. Although we’re aiming for a circular shape with the crown increasing, that’s not how it’ll look when the Hat is finished, because the circle smooths off as we wear the Hat.
Like the bottom-up Hat, if there isn’t enough negative ease, the lines of shaping can look quite sharp or angular. And sometimes the crown increasing is more rapid. Yet the internal structure will be pretty much the same – a tube or cylinder that’s closed at the top, and open at the bottom where it’ll sit around the head.
Diagram 2: this schematic shows a vertically knit Hat deconstructed. Although the panels are usually invisible, they relate to the numbers used in the crown shaping. The arrows indicate the direction of the knitting.
This next diagram shows how our Hat may look when the tube is taken apart. It’s how it’ll look if it’s worked flat. Those triangles at the top are there within the Hat when we work the crown shaping, but because the sections are all worked in one row or round, we don’t see them as separate sections – the triangles are worked consecutively as you work through the crown shaping.
This example uses a left-leaning increase like a M1L, but a crown worked with a right-leaning increase would be the same, only the triangles would lean the other way. If the crown shaping is more rapid, the angle of the triangles will change and they’ll become shorter; if we’re making a pixie Hat and the decreasing is less frequent, then the triangles will become taller.
The Pros and Cons of a Top-down Hat
I’ve said previously that the choice of decreases is one reason why I prefer a bottom-up Hat to a top-down one. In my opinion, decreases are much more varied than increases. Furthermore, decreases use existing stitches, whereas increases create stitches where there were none, and this can affect the tension of the fabric or the stitch pattern. And as briefly mentioned a few paragraphs back, the choice of bind-off methods – or at least those commonly known – isn’t as wide or as varied as cast-on methods.
All that said, top-down Hats offer lots of potential and the fact that they’re worked in reverse to a bottom-up Hat means that some of the challenges we faced previously are no longer an issue, or can even work to our advantage.
The one advantage that’s most commonly mentioned in favour of a top-down Hat is that you can keep going until you run out of yarn. Even if your brim isn’t quite as deep as intended, you can still finish the Hat without ripping back and adjusting the length of the body. This is a huge plus when you’re working with stash yarn that’s lost its ball-band, or oddments, or your handspun. And it really is a big plus – running out of yarn before you’ve finished your knitting is mighty frustrating.
Another key point is that the finished circumference of the Hat isn’t set in stone with the cast-on. Sure, if you’re part-way through the body when you discover that the Hat is too small or too big, it can be a little frustrating, but you only need to unpick to the last crown shaping rounds to change it – you don’t have to start over from scratch.
the ‘Sloochie’ Hat
the ‘Cabled Cap’ Hat
the ‘Bimple’ Hat
And that leads rather nicely into the next point – you can try the Hat on as you go – within reason. Because the increases can often be a little tighter, particularly pre-blocking, than the decreases in the crown of a bottom-up Hat, you won’t really get an accurate idea of how big the Hat is until you’ve worked a few inches or so of the body section once the shaping has finished. But at least you can try it on, and there’s less work involved in getting the right size. Heck, you could even cast on a top-down Hat before you know who it’s intended to fit and what size it should be!
A top-down Hat also makes the most common type of knit-Hat surgery easier to manage. Because the brim is the one place where a Hat has to fit, but is also the place that sees the most wear and tear, it can often need replacing. Whether it’s too big or too small, or not stretchy enough or has become overstretched over time, or it’s simply uncomfortable or itchy, you can just unpick the brim and rework it. I’m often asked how to fix a brim that’s become overstretched, either during blocking or through daily use, and if the brim is the last part of the Hat knit, it’s so much easier to modify.
The challenges to a top-down Hat – in particular the cast-on versus bind-off challenges – can also be used to our advantage. Not sure what stitch pattern to use for the brim because you’re not familiar with any ribbed bind-off methods? Then why not switch up the stitch pattern – try something different instead of ribbing! Or why not learn a new bind-off method to finish your ribbed brim? A top-down Hat can encourage us to be more creative, think outside the box, or learn new skills.
There are plenty of techniques that mirror the finishes you’d be familiar with in a bottom-up Hat. The circular cast-on, for instance, gives exactly the same finish as the draw-through bind-off that’s used at the top of a classic bottom-up crown. A tubular bind-off may sound off-putting or fiddly with its grafted edge, yet it’s a perfect mirror to a tubular cast-on and gives a mighty fine edge to ribbing, not to mention being very satisfying to finish!
Some examples of top-down Woolly Wormhead Hats are Cabled Cap, Alfur and Sette Vele.
I hope this has helped explain some of the similarities and differences between top-down and bottom-up vertically knit Hats. Each has benefits and drawbacks; there isn’t one method that’s better than the other. In the next few articles, I’m going to explore a few other ways of making the humble knit Hat, since once we break outside of the vertical methods there’s a whole other Hat construction world to explore.
Welcome to this series where I discuss various Hat construction methods! I gave an overview in this article and each of these posts will look at each of those constructions methods in more depth. Today I’m going to start with vertically knit bottom-up Hats.
The majority of hand knit Hats are made this way. And to be honest, we’ve probably never given it much thought or even wondered why we make Hats this way! In this article I’d like to delve a little deeper into the whys and wherefores of knitting a Hat from the bottom up.
Knitting a Hat this way is known as a vertical construction method, which means we knit in the direction of the depth of the Hat, from the brim to the crown. Each part of the Hat is worked separately – the brim, then the body and finally the crown; we cast on for the brim, cast off at the crown.
Diagram 1: the schematic shows a beanie shaped Hat with the 3 sections - brim, brim and crown - marked. The arrow points upwards and indicates the direction of knitting.
Bottom up means just that – we start at the bottom of the Hat. To start we would cast on the number of stitches needed to give us the size of brim circumference needed, with negative ease taken into account. If we’re working flat we’d add an extra stitch each end for the selvedge, so that seaming is neater and easier. If we’re working in the round, which most Woolly Wormhead vertical patterns are, you’d join in the round to knit your tube.
The brim is often ribbed but isn’t always, and neither does it have to be. The brim is where the Hat must fit, and depending on the style of Hat, it might be the only part of the Hat where the knitting is snug to the head. This is why ribbing is often used, but there are other stitch patterns and finishes that can provide enough stretch and warmth.
Once the brim is finished, the knitting continues seamlessly into the body. The stitch pattern may change, the shape of this central part of the tube may change. Either way, the body section of the tube is completed before beginning the crown shaping.
The diagram above shows the overall shape of a beanie, with a dotted line where the body transitions to the crown section but in reality, it too is entirely seamless.
A Glance at the Internal Structure of a Hat
Let’s have a closer look at Hat construction for a moment, because when we knit a Hat the shape we actually knit is a little different from the Hat-shape shown in the first diagram.
Diagram 2: this schematic shows a cylinder with a circle on top. The dashed lines indicates the full length of the Hat, from the brim to the crown.
This diagram shows what we actually knit when we knit a beanie – it’s a tube with a circle on top. The brim + the body together are the tube, the circle closing the tube is the crown. It’s really important to remember to include the radius of the circle in the overall length measurement!
When we cast on for the brim, we cast on enough stitches to start the opening of the tube, and that’s where it’ll sit around the head. We knit round and round or back and forth, adding height to the tube as it grows into the body. If we’re making a beret or slouch Hat, we may increase after the brim - different Hat styles would have a different arrangement of tubes. Once the desired length of the brim+body has been achieved, we start decreasing for the crown.
Although we’re aiming for a circular shape with the decreasing, that’s not how it’ll look when the Hat is finished - the circle smooths off as we wear the Hat, and if there isn’t enough negative ease the lines of decreasing can look quite sharp or angular.
Sometimes the crown decreasing is more rapid, or even gathered. Yet the internal structure will be pretty much the same – a tube or cylinder that’s closed at the top.
Diagram 3: this schematic shows a bottom-up beanie deconstructed. Although we don’t usually see panels in a vertically knit Hat, they are there internally and they’re dictated by the crown maths or multiples.
This next diagram shows how our Hat may look when the tube is taken apart. It’s how it’ll look if it’s worked flat. Those triangles at the top are there within the Hat when we work the crown shaping, but because the sections are all worked in one row or round, we don’t see them as separate sections – the triangles are worked consecutively as you work through the crown shaping.
This example uses a left-leaning decrease like an ssk, but a crown worked with a right-leaning or k2tog decrease would be the same, only the triangles would lean the other way. If the crown shaping is more rapid, the angle of the triangles will change and they’ll become shorter; if we’re making a pixie Hat and the decreasing is less frequent then the triangles will become taller. Pixie Hats are still a tube closed at the top, except they’re finished with a cone instead of a circle.
the ‘Adiantum’ slouch Hat
the ‘Daedalus’ stranded Hat
the ‘Laccio’ Hat
Why Bottom-up Hats are Popular
The choice of decreases is one reason why I prefer a bottom-up Hat to a top-down one. In my opinion, decreases are so much more varied and prettier than increases. My general approach to shaping in knitting is that if you can’t hide it, make a feature of it. And decreases can be so striking and architectural, especially when stacked or otherwise carefully placed. They can also be completely hidden within the pattern too.
Then there are other reasons to choose this method, besides the aesthetics of decreases. When we decrease in knitting we use stitches that are already made and knit the decreases, adding in fresh yarn. Our decreases rarely impact the tension of the fabric. Yet with the exception of a few, increases require us to create stitches from the existing fabric, which can make them a little tighter. It’s not something that’s especially noticeable in larger garments, but when increases are worked frequently in the same place, as they would be in the crown of a Hat, it can make the fabric tighter or even pucker in places.
the ‘Pebbles’ Hat
the ‘Rennie’ Hat
the ‘Sumner’ Hat
Besides increases and decreases, there are other knit tech reasons why bottom-up Hats are favoured over top-down – casting off and casting on methods. Cast-off methods can be a little tight, or not as stretchy, and generally cast-off methods are not as varied as cast-on methods. That’s not to say that they can’t be as practical or as easy to execute as cast-on methods, just that they’re not as varied or as well known. You can use any cast-on if you wanted to make a bottom-up Hat, and the draw-through bind-off for closing a top of a Hat is easy enough. Yet it’s not always as easy the other way round.
One drawback of the bottom-up method is that the circumference of the Hat isn’t adjustable after we’ve cast on, but one advantage of it is that the depth is adjustable and we can make our Hat as tall or as short as needed. You’ll always want to make sure you’ve enough yarn to finish your crown, but otherwise the depth is pretty adjustable.
There are lots of reasons why bottom-up vertically knit Hats are great, and I hope this article has helped explain why they’re so popular, as well as give a little bit of background info to the inner structure of a Hat! In the next article I’ll talk about working a Hat from the top-down.
Hat styles, and how they’re known, vary from region to region. Over the years I’ve learnt a lot about different regional styles and traditional shapes, and I’ve also seen how the definitions blur. There are however a few common features, styles and shapes and I’ve outlined them below.
When writing this I really wanted to define the different styles but at the same time, also note which are attributes. On the new website I want the search function to be fully tailored to Hat knitting patterns, which is something no other database does. To help folks using the new search feature an accompanying article was a must but also, I really ought to be defining these anyways!
I've hinted about some of these illustrations over on Patreon and here they are - all drawn by me on the Remarkable 2. They didn't turn out too badly, eh? I’ve plans for some of these to be developed into print via Spoonflower but each time I sit down to work on them, something else comes and grabs my attention. Eventually though, I’m sure!
The beanie is a pretty standard shape. Sometimes known as a half-dome, it hugs the head. A ribbed brim is common, and there’s little to no change in fit between the brim and the body. It usually has a smooth crown but it can sometimes be gathered. It’s occasionally topped with a pompom. Beanies hug the head and often have a sportier look to them.
An example of this style is the Ledger Beanie.
The watchcap is very similar to a beanie in overall shape. It’s distinguishing feature is it’s deep, chunky brim, which is designed for warmth and is usually achieved by working the ribbed brim extra long so it can be folded up. It has a vintage look to it and because of the thickness of the brim, it frames the face differently to a beanie.
An example of this style is the Thrifter beanie.
The pixie Hat’s defining feature is it’s pointy crown. It’s shown here with a fitted brim and body, much like a beanie, but you can add a pointy crown to just about any style of Hat. How sharp or soft the point is varies. They can be playful or casual, but they’re not just for kids.
An example of this style is the Beelore Hat.
The earflap Hat’s defining features are, well, the flaps that cover the ears. It’s shown here as similar to the beanie with a smooth crown but that’s not a requirement. Earflap Hats can be pixie Hats, they can be slouchy Hats. They can even be berets – what makes them an earflap Hat are the two pieces of fabric that grow down from the brim edge.
An example of this style is the Selkie Hat.
Much like the earflap Hat, a helmet style Hat is designed to keep the ears warm. The one key difference is that the brim and earflaps are one, and that the coverage doesn’t end with the ears – it continues all the way around creating a style that keeps the back of the neck warm, too.
An example of this style is the Swinton Hat.
Much like the helmet style, an aviator style has a continuous one-piece brim and ear coverage. It’s defining feature is the fold up flap at the front – it’s as if the extra deep band goes all the way around the Hat but you have to fold up a section at the front so it doesn’t cover your eyes.
An example of this style is the Karenin Hat.
The pillbox Hat is a vintage style. It commands more structure than a beanie yet still fits closely around the head. What’s unique about this style is it’s flat crown that appears to sit decisively on top of a tapering cylinder, rather than forming around the head. They can be tall or not so tall but if there isn’t that definition at the top, it’s probably a beanie in disguise.
An example of this style is the Taboosh Hat.
The ponytail Hat is another beanie look-a-like but it isn’t always. The whole point to this Hat is that you can wear your ponytail without it being squashed, which means it’s a Hat with a hole at the top. Sometimes the hole has a ruffle or drawstring, as shown here, or sometimes it’s simply a beanie that didn’t quite get finished.
An example of this style is the Arcus Hat.
The cloche is another vintage style, designed to frame the face. The name literally means ‘bell’ implying that it flares out a little at the bottom whilst otherwise being generally fitted. They’re often asymmetrical, or worn asymmetrically, and a split brim can accentuate that.
An example of this style is the Campello Hat.
The brimmed Hat comes in many guises! It could be a subtle brim, much like a bucket Hat, or a wide I-demand-to-be-a-circle brim as we’d expect to see on a sun Hat. Because the brim is designed to sit away from the head the Hat usually fits snuggly around the body so that it doesn’t fall off.
An example of this style is the Molly Hat.
The peaked brim, sometimes known as a billed Hat depending on the rest of the Hat style and regional variations, is a brim that sits away from the body but isn’t continuous like a full brimmed Hat. When worn on a roomier Hat like a beret it has a vintage style to it, when worn on a beanie it’ll look like more like a sports cap.
An example of this style is the Camden Cap.
The square top Hat has gained popularity in recent years as the ‘pussy Hat’, yet it’s always been a favourite amongst kids or grown-ups with a playful style. It’s defining feature – the top that’s created by the cylinder of knitting closing straight across – makes it an ideal Hat for newer knitters as it requires very little shaping.
An example of this style is the Tinker Hat.
The beret is a traditional French style, yet we see similar styles from other regions. It’s defining features are a fuller body, gained by increasing about 50% in the circumference from the brim into the body, and it’s large smooth crown that presents as a circle when flat. It can be worn to one side or lower around the face to hug the head and cover the ears.
An example of this style is the Elsica Hat.
The slouch Hat is a style that defies definition. Slouch can be many things but essentially it’s an increase in the volume of the Hat. That could mean extra width, but not quite a beret, or extra length like an extra tall beanie, or a bit of both. Here it’s shown as a bit of both in what I call the ‘comfort slouch’.
An example of this style is the Construct Hat.
The bonnet is another style that sees some variation, yet what links them is the split brim – usually worn at the back – which then follows the line of the chin, with the Hat sitting lower around the face to fully frame it. The brim is often deep, but not always, and is sometimes tapered, but not always. The body of the Hat can be fitted but is usually a little roomy but not too slouchy with either a gathered or fitted crown.
An example of this style is the Lifted Hat.
The envelope Hat is a style that looks cleverer than it is. It can be slouchy or fitted. It can be found on berets, beanies and slouchies alike. What makes it so is the way the crown is created with no shaping whatsoever. When worn on a slouchy Hat, it drapes with definition.
An example of this style is the Slonnet Hat.
The stocking cap is essentially a pixie Hat stretched out and then some. It has a long tapering point which falls down behind the head or around the neck. The brim and the body of the Hat are usually fitted – it’s the extra long cone shape that sets this one apart. The tip of the Hat is often adorned with tassels or a pompom.
An example of this style is the Sweet Winkie Hat.
The structural Hat is more sculptural than the others, more structural than even the pillbox. It’s hard to define, but if it has sections that grow away from the body, or it’s crown is created in some way that means it barely resembles the familiar crown of a woolly Hat, then it probably belongs in this group of misfits. These are my favourite Hats to make.
An example of this style might be the Tudor Cap or the Torsione Hat.
That’s a whopping 18 styles!
There’s no doubt a few regional variations or styles missing, and I’d love to hear from you if you spot a style and know it as something else, likewise if there’s a style I’ve missed - please leave a comment below and share your thoughts!
It’s worth repeating that many of the key features that folks often feel define a style are actually attributes, and that those features can be used on another style or mixed up with other attributes. This is something you’ll often see in Woolly Wormhead patterns - I’ve patterns for a slouchy pixie Hat or a slouchy bonnet for instance - and that’s why we’re aiming to build the new website (not yet live at the time this article was published) with a database that explores the many ways we can make or wear a Hat. Because why not knit or crochet outside of the box?
The image shown at the beginning of this post features my Daisy pattern - a sideways knit lace wide brimmed pattern. It’s a fun make!
There’s an awful lot more to knitted Hat construction than it may first seem. The humble Hat is the most 3-dimensional garment we wear, which in turn means there’s an infinite number of ways to create it. I’ve a background in textile sculpture which is one reason why I love creating and designing Hats so much – I’m never going to run out of ways to make one!
Generally speaking Hat knitting patterns fall into 3 main categories and I’ve outlined each below. Each of the methods will be explained in further detail should you wish to learn more and I’ll be linking to those pages as they become available.
Vertical Construction Methods
Bottom-up Hat construction is the method everyone will be familiar with. A Hat knit this way starts with a cast on, then we proceed to knit the brim, the body and then the crown in that order before closing at the top. Hats made this way use decreases for the crown shaping.
Top-down Hat construction is the same, only in reverse – we cast on then work the crown, then the body and finally the brim before casting off. Hats made this way have increases for the crown shaping instead of decreases.
With both methods stitch gauge is the important factor when determining fit around the head, and row gauge helps us determine depth. Most of the time, depending on the pattern of course, a the depth of a vertically knit Hat can be adjusted as we work but once we’ve cast on the circumference isn’t adjustable.
Because we’re so familiar with these methods we’ve probably not given the direction of our stitches much thought, but if we think about the fact that the direction of our stitches follows the same direction as the depth of the Hat, or the line of the head, it’ll help us understand the differences between each construction method better.
One example of a bottom-up Hat is Castiel. An example of a top-down Hat is Cabled Cap.
Learn more about Bottom-up Hat Construction.
Learn more about Top-Down Hat Construction.
the ‘Castiel’ bottom-up Hat
the ‘Cabled Cap’ top-down Hat
Sideways Construction Methods
This method is more unusual, yet it’s something you’ll see often within my designs. Here, our knitting is turned on it’s side and it’s my favourite way to approach construction.
We don’t work the brim, the body or the crown as separate parts of a Hat like we do in vertical knitting. Instead we work a little bit of each in every row we knit. We’re turning our knitting sideways, and turning it all through ninety degrees mixes everything up. Stitch patterns look and behave differently, different techniques are involved, even the yarn can look different if it’s hand-dyed or variegated.
Whereas with a vertically knit Hat the depth is adjustable as we go but the circumference is fixed by the number of stitches we’ve cast on, with sideways knitting the depth of the Hat is fixed by the number of stitches we cast on and the circumference can usually be adjusted as we go by changing the number of panels we work. That doesn’t mean the depth can’t be changed, it simply means you have to decide that before you cast on, just as you’d need to decide if you want to change the circumference of your vertically knit Hat before you cast on.
If we come back to thinking about the direction of our stitches, with the sideways methods the stitches are running around our head, not in line with it. The stitches sit perpendicular to the depth of the head. It’s important to clarify that when I refer to the direction of our stitches, I’m not talking about the direction of our knitting. With a traditional vertically knit Hat the direction our knitting takes is the same direction the stitches take. But once we break outside of that the direction of the knitting isn’t always the same as that of the stitches, and it’s the stitches that are key. It’s the direction the stitches travel in when the Hat is finished or worn that defines the construction type.
It’s often thought that there’s only one way to make a sideways knit Hat but that’s not true! Because our stitches aren’t following the line or the depth of the head, we’ve much more freedom with how we approach construction. Vertically knit Hats are a more restrictive knit, and that’s no different when it comes to design; there always has to be a hole at one end large enough for it to be worn, the size of which has to be determined before we start, and the direction of knitting will always be the same.
The Sideways Linear Construction is the method most knitters will think of when you mention working sideways. Hats made this way can also be known as side-to-side Hats or short row Hats. This method uses short rows instead of increases or decreases for any shaping. It’s made up of panels that are repeated around instead of distinct sections, and the panels are worked in line and are knit from the crown to the brim then back.
The Sideways Radial Construction uses increases and decreases for crown shaping, but may use short rows if the Hat has any shaping near the brim. Hats knit this way are made up of panels that are repeated around but instead of the panels being knit linearly, they’re knit from the centre out or the outside in. The panels are worked consecutively and the stitches still run around the head when worn, it’s how the panels are created that’s different to the linear method.
The Sideways Traverse or Brim to Brim Construction is yet another way to knit a Hat sideways. This one uses short rows for shaping throughout, and follows a more straightforward path similar to the linear method, but instead of being constructed from panels that are worked from the crown to the brim and back, this one is created by knitting panels that go from the brim to the crown then to the brim the other side and back.
An example of a Sideways Linear Hat is Diponaea. An example of a Sideways Radial Hat is Mirallat, and an example of a Sideways Traverse, or Brim to Brim, Hat is the Get Garter Envelope Slouch.
Learn more about Sideways Linear Construction.
Learn more about Sideways Radial Construction.
Learn more about Sideways Brim to Brim (Traverse) Construction.
the Diponaea’ sideways linear Hat
the ‘Mirallat’ sideways radial Hat
the ‘Get Garter Envelope Slouch’ sideways traverse Hat
Modular Construction Methods
This construction method is so wide and broad that it’s hard to group them together under one umbrella. Generally, modular Hat construction will fall into one of following 3 methods, and again, keep the direction of those stitches in mind.
Modular construction, by definition, will involve some joining. It could be picking up stitches and knitting off in a different direction, or some seaming may be required. It could even involve some grafting or various bind-off or provisional cast-on methods.
The Folded Modular Construction method involves knitting a piece of fabric, usually without any kind of shaping, then proceeding to fold the fabric in a particular way and seaming it to finish. Occasionally there may be more than one rectangle of knitted fabric, but not often. You could argue that this isn’t really modular, as it’s usually only one knitted piece and not several, and yeah, that’s kinda true. But you aren’t creating a Hat with the knitting, it’s the combination of non-knitting techniques, the sewing and folding, that makes it a Hat. It still needs structuring and joining in some way that a sideways or vertical knit Hat wouldn’t. Furthermore, the stitches won’t all be laying in the same direction, they’ll be laying in lots of different directions, and that’s important. So whilst it’s not strictly modular knitting, this is where it fits most comfortably.
The Combined Modular Construction method involves one or more construction methods from the those described earlier. In short, it’s a mix of a vertical and sideways. Most often a Hat constructed this way will have a sideways brim with stitches picked up around an edge to create a vertically knit body and crown. You could think of this as a bottom-up combined method. You could make a Hat with a vertically knit brim and a sideways knit body and crown, i.e. a top-down combined method, but it’s rare to find a pattern worked this way. Thinking back to those stitches and how they travel, with this construction method the stitches will have distinct directions, usually perpendicular to each other.
The Pieced Modular Construction method is what most people think of when you mention a modular Hat. But it isn’t always about picking up stitches and knitting in a different direction – sometimes it’s about knitting different pieces and joining them together afterwards. Hats made this way will be made up of several sections and once joined, the stitches will lay in lots of different directions but usually in formation although they don’t have to be. A lot of the time the sections to be joined are the same size, but not always, as the Hat style and shape will determine that.
An example of a Folded Modular Hat is Diagonale. And example of a Combined Modular Hat is Campello, and an example of a Pieced Modular Hat is Tudor Cap.
the ‘Diagonale’ folded modular Hat
the ‘Campello’ combined modular Hat
the ‘Tudor Cap’ pieced modular Hat
Why Stitch Direction is Important
When I was gathering all my Hat knowledge to write this it was fairly clear to me which method fell under which construction group, but I found it tricky to say exactly why. I kept thinking about the direction we knit in, as that’s what we think of when we talk about knitting vertically or sideways.
But then I thought about the Sideways Radial method, which is one that I’m particularly fascinated with right now. It doesn’t strictly use what are commonly considered essential sideways techniques – a sideways knit Hat with shaping created by increases and decreases? I hadn’t named this method at this point and in trying to define it’s differences to other sideways methods I sat and looked at the patterns I’d designed this way, Mirallat and the Lateralis Hats, and realised that the direction that we knit in was tripping me up. Each of the patterns I’ve published so far that are constructed this way use garter stitch and each absolutely has garter stitch sitting sideways in the Hat with all the changes in stitch properties that that brings. It doesn’t matter whether we knit in a straight line, in a curve, inwards or outwards or at right angles, it’s how the stitches sit within the Hat that we want to pay attention to. Stitch properties change when we construct our Hat – or any garment for that matter – differently, and it’s those stitch properties that determine fit and slouch and wearability and the overall pattern.
I hope this summary of the main Hat construction types helps! There’s so much to explore with Hat knitting, and there’s always an opportunity to try something new.
The title image shows my Buzzba pattern - a playful earflap pixie Hat in 6 sizes.
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