*Please note - this pattern is now available as a PDF file, along with other free patterns, which can be downloaded from here*

Wahoo! My first crochet pattern :)
Have written this one up, being as the first hat I made of this style proved very popular and it's only fair to share. It's construction is a simple one - 7 afghan hexagons slotted and stitched together, with a brim worked in double crochet (English terminology used) The use of 'granny squares' makes it ideal for using up stash oddments and for playing around with colour within the shapes. The only downside I found was all the ends that needed sewing in! Still, it's a great look.
I know granny squares are no original concept or pattern, but I've played around with various combinations of stitches and shapes and how this hat developed is my own design.

English terminology is used throughout. I will try to explain the stitches as clearly as I can for beginner hookers like myself, and the US equivalents can be found here and here. Further help with terminology can be found here. Any crochet readers that see mistakes please help me out and post a comment!

Stitches used
Double crochet - dc (US - sc)
Trebles - tr (US- dc)
Half trebles - htr (US- hdc)
Clusters - work 3 treble stitches together - tr3cl (US - dc cl) (the start of each round has a 3 ch then tr2cl - a 2tr cluster, which counts as a tr3cl)

note:- I have linked up a tutorial to each of these stitches, yet the only ones I could find used US terminology. Please be assured, UK readers, that you will find the right instruction for the stitch! When learning the UK stitches, I used 'Harmony Guide to Crochet Stitches'.

5dc to an inch

3.5mm hook or size to get gauge (US size E)
approx 90g of DK, sportsweight or aran yarn
(the hexagons require around 60 or 70g, use oddments for trim & brim as desired)

Ready? Go on then, make a hex hat!

Hexagons - make 7
Base ring - 6 chain, join with slip stitch
1st round - 3chain, tr2cl into ring (counts as tr3cl) then (2ch, tr3cl into ring) 5 times, chain 1, then 1htr into top of cluster to join round (6 clusters in total)

2nd round - 3chain, tr2cl into link formed by previous htr (counts as 1st tr3cl) then *2ch (tr3cl, 2ch, tr3cl) into next sp (space); repeat from * 4 more times, 2ch, tr3cl into last sp, 1ch, 1htr to link to first cluster and close round (2 clusters worked into each space, giving 12 clusters)

3rd round - 3ch, tr2cl into link formed by previous htr (counts as 1st tr3cl) then *2ch, (tr3cl, 2ch, tr3cl) into next sp**, 2ch tr3cl into next sp; repeat from * 4 times more then from * to ** once more, 1ch, 1htr to link to first cluster and close round (alternate 2 cluster then 1 cluster into spaces giving 18 clusters. Hexagon shape should start to be noticeable)

4th round - 3ch (counts as 1st treble) 1tr into link formed by previous htr, *3tr into next sp (3tr, 1ch, 3tr) into next sp**, 3tr into next space ; repeat from * 4 more times more then from * to ** once more, 1tr into next space and then join to first 3ch with a slip stitch.

5th round - 1ch, 1dc into same place, 1dc into each treble and each chain (meaning every stitch) all the way round, ending round by joining to first dc with a slip stitch

6th round - use contrast yarn - 1ch, 1dc into same place then work dc all the way round but work 2dc into each corner chain (the corner chain is between the double clusters) on previous round, join round with a slip stitch to first dc.

Weave in ends and give the hexagons a light press with a damp cloth.

There a couple of methods for joining. They hex's can either be slip stitched together from the reverse or joined using dc - i.e place hex's together, right sides outwards, and dc into the chains of both hex's at the same time. This gives a visible ridge on the outside, which emphasises the shape and helps hold the form if the yarn you are using is soft and drapy. Ideally worked in a contrast yarn.

As 2dc were worked into the corner chains of each hex on the last round, this sharpens the corners and makes joining easier. Make sure to match the corners up! There will be one hex in the centre, with the other 6 joining around it, so when flat it looks like a flower. After joining to the central hex, join down the sides of the other 6 hex's (2 sides of each hex), leaving the base of each hex free for the brim. It should look sort of like half a football ;)

The Brim
Starting at one of the joins, slip stitch with choice of yarn, dc into same place then continue to work dc into each chain all the way round. Take care to work neatly whenever a seam is met, and work a dc into each side of the seam and into the join chain itself, to ensure the brim is of the right size. If it looks like it may be a little on the small side, work 2dc into the joins. Mark start of round.

Do not join the rounds! This brim is worked continuously in dc, round and round. Work until brim is 2" deep. Join round with a slip stitch at starting point. Double crochet can curl slightly and look a little baggy, so for the last round work a decrease every 3 or 4 chains to keep the brim firm.

Weave in all ends to finish. A light blocking will be needed, especially if the hexagons weren't pressed before joining.

Please, please, please - post a link so I can see your finished hat! And how did I do with the crochet lingo, bearing in mind I'm primarily a knitter?

Hate to do this folks, but it's my design and so the rights belong to me. Feel free to use this pattern for your own, private use, but not for commercial reproduction or selling in either written or finished form without prior permission from me, ok? Cool. Let's be friends.

AuthorWoolly Wormhead
CategoriesHats, Patterns