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Description

Baby Tri-Peak is a stocking stitch beanie worked from the bottom up. It starts with a rolled stocking stitch brim and continues in stocking stitch for the body. The crown features three upright peaks evenly spaced around the Hat.

Availability

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Yarn
99yd/90m/50g
Aran weight, multi-plied yarn.

Needles & Notions
Set 4.5mm/UK7/US7 DPNs/Circular or size needed to obtain gauge
4.5mm crochet hook
Stitch marker as necessary
Tapestry needle

Sample details
Shown in Ashford Tekapo [218yd/199m per 100g; 100% Wool]

Shown in size 16in/40.75cm on model with 16in/40.75cm circumference head

Gauge
18 sts x 24 rows to 4in/10cm on 4.5mm needles over St.St.

Sizes
To fit sizes: 12 [14, 16] in/30.5 [35.5, 40.75] cm
Finished size: 11.5 [13.25, 15] in/29.25 [33.75, 38] cm
Not sure which size to make? Check my handy size and measuring guide!

Skills required
Stocking Stitch

Knitting in the round

Cable Cast-on

Crochet Bind-off

Abbreviations

K: knit

st(s): stitch(es)

Alteration Notes

To alter the size for a tri-peak, increase or decrease the number of cast-on stitches by 6.

Should you wish for a quatra-peak, cast on 56 [72, 80] sts and start the first peak by slipping the first 7 [9, 10] etc.

How to

Cast on 54 [66, 78] sts

Join in the round, being careful not to twist sts. Place stitch marker to indicate start of round.

Body

Knit every round to create stocking stitch.
Continue until length of tube is 6 [6.5, 7] in/15 [16.5, 17.75] cm or desired length. At this length, you are ready to start the top shaping.

Crown

Slip the first 9 [11, 13] sts from the next needle directly after marker (start of round) onto a 4.5mm DPN (or spare needle)

You are now at the tip of the first point. Count off & slip the next 9 [11, 13] sts onto another spare 4.5mm DPN. Leave rest of sts on other needles or stitch holders, as you'll need them later for the other peaks.

These two needles are now your working needles. With this set of working needles, both should have 9 [11, 13] sts on them. Hold them so that they are parallel and wrong sides together. You are ready to start the crochet bind-off.

Peak1
With your crochet hook, slip the 1st stitch off the first working needle onto the hook. Do the same with the 1st stitch of the 2nd working needle. Pass the 1st stitch on the hook over the 2nd (with me so far?) Slip the 2nd stitch of the 1st needle onto the hook, and again pass over the previous stitch. Keep going like this until you have one stitch remaining - you are crocheting alternate stitches from the working needles and passing over the previous stitch on the crochet hook.

Note: you do not need the yarn for this method, so leave it attached and trailing at the start of the round.

The remaining stitch should be held on a marker until you have finished all 3 peaks. You should have a visible seam, which looks a little plaited, kinda. This method helps keep the peaks 'crisp'.

Peak 2
Slip next 9 [11,13] sts onto a working DPN. And again the following 9 [11, 13] sts onto 2nd working DPN. Repeat the cast-off process, saving the remaining stitch with the first, on a stitch holder.

Peak 3
With any luck, you should have 18 [22, 26] sts remaining. Divide these evenly across 2 needles and repeat this crochet bind-off again.

Finishing

You will have 3 sts remaining; the finishing sts from each peak. Break yarn and thread through remaining sts. Pass yarn end to inside, and weave in all ends. A gentle blocking is recommended.

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Posted
AuthorWoolly Wormhead
CategoriesHats, Patterns