The weeks all seem to be running into each other here as I try and battle on through all the red tape. I've been locked out of my new PayPal account for over a week, with no access to funds, because they looked at what I took in the first two weeks of moving the business and decided that I needed to prove who I am and where my business is (I earnt too much, basically, for what they perceive as a new business and they want to rule out fraud). Which isn't easy, as they seem to assume that a business address is also a personal residential address, and my Estonian business isn't yet a month old.

Add to that a whole bunch of other things, like being without internet for nearly a week (but now we have broadband!) models falling through (and me desperately trying to find some new and diverse faces), my printed backdrop (and it's reprint) coming through green, not grey, and... well I could go on. I'm really struggling to keep the worst of my depression at bay.

 BUT! I do have now 5 finished Hats, ready for photography. And I can reveal them, and the details of my collaboration with a brilliant dyer.

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And here is the first full photo of the Lateralis Hats!

I reknit all of the samples, as I quickly came to the conclusion that one of things niggling me about this collection was the lack of colour cohesion. To mix and match hand dyed yarns from different dyers requires a large pool to pull from, and my work stash isn't big enough (I'm working on that). Whilst talking about colour cohesion with a couple of dyer friends, one said she was wanting to put together a range of tonal DK yarns, and working with me would be the nudge she needed. 

 So at Fibre East this year we talked colour and yarn and colour combinations and decided on a selection of 4 tonals and 3 variegated yarn.

RiverKnits is the dyer I've worked with, and if you're familiar with Becci's yarns you'll see how the new tonals are so her colour palette. She's made a fantastic job of the new DK tonals and I'm more than happy to be showcasing them here. I tend not to accept yarn sponsorship, as my organic process doesn't always lend itself well to commitments or deadlines (nor does my health, for that matter) but having a complete collection of patterns ready, and with obvious benefits for both parties,  this was clearly going to work out well.

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Becci is busy preparing the new yarn line, and I'm excited to see more DK available. If you pop to her Instagram feed you'll find more details (and do go and have a good look round if you've not come across her before - her dye studio is a narrowboat). 

This week we're focussing on photoshoots and choosing fonts and style themes for layout. I'll also be doing some last little touches to the patterns, such as matching the colours on the charts to those of the samples, which will add to the cohesion. 

I've been quite anxious about the shoots, seeing as we've only one of the three planned models, and a backdrop that's the wrong colour (it'll work but it'll mean extra editing time, which in turn means more pain for my shoulders). Our one model will be great, I'm sure,  but I'm not sure how well the Hats will suit her. And the face I had envisaged isn't available anymore, which has thrown me completely. I'm really not sure whether this week will be better than the last, but we have at least reached this stage and that's quite something!

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AuthorWoolly Wormhead
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This is a highly effective and quick cast-on. It’s most often used as a provisional cast-on, yet if worked with the main yarn as a permanent cast-on it hides right into the fabric. It is in fact the true opposite of a graft, which makes it very useful indeed.

This cast-on is worked over two same sized circular or interchangeable needles, held parallel. The cast-on can sometimes be a little loose, especially if one half of the stitches are held for a long time, so choose needles that are one or two sizes below those required for the main pattern. It’s also a good idea to have long circulars or cable length – this will stop the stitches bunching and let them sit comfortably without the risk of losing stitches.

This cast-on is similar to the Turkish Cast-on; a slightly different set up resulting in two sets of live stitches across two needles. It’s worth bearing in mind that this tutorial was written for the Lateralis collection where the patterns are worked flat, although the method could be adapted for working in the round.

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1) Place a slip knot on the top needle and hold the yarn tail to the left, tucked out of the way.

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2) Bring the yarn down across the front of both needles then underneath the bottom needle to come back up again behind.

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3) Continue this process, winding in the same way. You can wrap the yarn the other way round to create the stitches but that means that the stitches will need re-orientating, or working into the back of, on the very first row.

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4) Continue until you have the desired number of stitches. Remember that each full wrap creates two stitches – one on the top needle, one on the bottom. You are now ready to start working the stitches.

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5) Gently pull the lower circular needle through, allowing it to hang out of the way. Ensure that the yarn goes underneath the cable as shown, as you’ll need it at the back to start the next stitch. If the yarn isn’t taken underneath the cable before you start knitting then it will reduce the number of wraps by one.

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6) It’s important to remember to work directly with the same yarn and treat this first row of stitches worked as the first row in the pattern – do not work a plain row first! If you worked the cast-on with a smaller needle, now switch to the main needle and insert it into the first stitch as normal.

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7) Wrap the yarn around the needle and pull the stitch through – the first stitch of the first row of the pattern is now worked.

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8) Continue working the stitches in this first row as directed by the pattern. As you reach the end of the first set of stitches you will find the slip knot that you started with – where possible, slip this slip knot onto the lower needle cable and hold it there until the 2nd set of live stitches are ready to be worked. The slip knot isn’t to be treated as a stitch but as an anchor, and it will help make sure that the first stitch of the 2nd set of stitches doesn’t get lost.

Continue working the stitches as directed by your pattern – in some patterns you may be asked to work on one set of stitches only, to return to the 2nd set at a later point. In other patterns you will work both sets of stitches in one row, which will take careful management of the needles (either DPNs or magic loop).

If the 2nd set of stitches are held for a long time, then the stitches may get a little saggy – this is easily fixed by tightening up the stitches one by one with a tapestry needle, working towards the slip knot/yarn tail.

Support

If you’ve a question about this technique, pop it in a comment below or visit the forum! I’m unable to offer help with patterns or techniques via email.

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AuthorWoolly Wormhead

Yup, I'm still here and still buried under admin and edits. I keep thinking that I can see the light at the end of the tunnel then it goes and moves...

This year I've accepted very few collaborations and commissions, yet there are some people I can't say no to! Carol feller's new book, Echoes of Heather and Stone, is now live and available and I've a Hat in the collection, named Trittico.

I wrote a little on Carol's blog about the design, it's inspiration and it's construction. Hint: it's knitted sideways with some unusual means to creating a vertical line! And slipped stitches and grafting. I rather enjoyed this piece as I had the chance to indulge my love of symbolism, which doesn't happen too often these days (unless it's going on my skin). And line - I love bringing line into design, it's so effective on a knitted fabric.

Find the blog post here.

Carol and her handy videocam also caught up with me at Woollinn, and I braved the camera to share about the Hat a little.

 
 

Follow the links above if you'd like to peruse and purchase the collection - I'm in great company and all together, it's a fabulous collection - I've no doubt you'll love it.

Back to my edits and admin I go, and I do believe this time that I've broken the back of it.

Posted
AuthorWoolly Wormhead

This coming monday we head to Estonia for two nights, to finalise the bank things and hopefully visit a (textile) museum to make the most of the travel costs. I've heard so many good things about Tallinn and I've no doubt it'll take the edge of travel and business anxiety.

Once this is done, the backend business changes will have all fallen into place and I can start the intense process of changing all the prices and currencies. I've already started making subtle little changes to this website - the company name and VAT number have been added, for instance. 

I've got to commend the Estonian system and my new accountants (LeapIn) for making it all so smooth and painless. I keep expecting something to hiccup but it doesn't. It's such a progressive digital system, quite an eye opener compared to what I know of the UK and Italian systems.

Nonetheless, it's a massive change and I'm anxious. I'm joining the numbers of SMEs and micro, nay, nano businesses that are leaving UK shores. My days of paying tax to the UK are numbered and it's both exciting and sad. I doubt I would have done all this if brexit wasn't a thing but it is and as much as we're at risk on the domestic front from the whole shit show, I've begrudgingly grateful for the nudge to make this change. The business will be better off, there's no doubt about that.

I keep bouncing between emotions and the only thing that's keeping me stable is the clear path ahead to do all the things that need doing. Applying for residency in Italy will not be smooth, and I'm expecting to come unstuck some time in October.  In the meantime, I'm coping (just).

Meanwhile, I'm working away on Lateralis, which I expect to be published in October some time. This collection hasn't been as smooth as Elemental in its development but I suspect that that's as much to do with everything else I'm trying to juggle than anything else.

It has though taken a positive turn these last few weeks. I've been chatting with a very talented indie dyer who wanted to sponsor the collection. I'm not normally keen to take yarn from indies but we've agreed on a collaboration that benefits us both in direct and indirect ways. One of the things that's been missing from the Lateralis collection is colour cohesion. And now it will have it. I won't reveal just yet who the dyer is as they've their own schedule to work too, but be assured you will spammed with the details once we're ready to share! 

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The next few weeks will be critical and you'll likely see me disappear from social media even more than usual. It's all fine and good for now, I just need a little breathing space. And possibly numerous massages and umpteen bottles of wine.

 See you on the other side!

Posted
AuthorWoolly Wormhead
2 CommentsPost a comment

That's a pretty self-explanatory title!

Finishing up the Lateralis collection before photoshoot and layout, and making all the big changes to the business are consuming every part of me. We fly to Estonia 13th to 15th August to finalise the very last few things and then it's all systems go on the business changes front.

From 16th August, Kat and I will be making the necessary changes, and that includes the changes in price and currency as well as adding VAT numbers and so on. Knowing that's just around the corner I figured I'd given everyone a chance to buy ePatterns and eBooks at current prices, with a sweetener thrown in.

 
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This offer went exclusive to The Woolly Hat Society a week ago, and now I'm able to share it here - feel free to spread this far and wide!

Here's a reminder of those price and currency changes that will come into effect from August 16th:

ePatterns
€5.50 : $7 : £4.75 (currently €5.50 : $6 : £3.75)

eBooks
<4 patterns: €12 : $14 : £11
<10 patterns: €14 : $17 : £13
10 patterns: €16 : $20 : £14
>10 patterns: €20 : $24 : £18 

Posted
AuthorWoolly Wormhead